Sydney Travelogue | A little record of dolphins, sand dunes and coastlines

Last weekend, I visited Port Stephens, which is about a two-and-a-half-hour drive from Sydney. I made a list of activities I wanted to do: dolphin watching, sandboarding, beach quad biking, camel riding along the beach, and touching sharks and stingrays. I stayed in Nelson Bay, and my two-day itinerary wasn't packed, leaving some flexibility.

 

 

Day 1: Dolphin Watching

The boat departed at 10:30 AM from Nelson Bay jetty. I chose a seat by the railing on the second floor, avoiding the crowded cabin on the first floor. About twenty minutes after the boat set off, the loudspeaker announced dolphins on the left. I rushed over and saw three to five dolphins swimming right next to the boat, their dorsal fins appearing and disappearing. One was especially close, allowing me to see the markings on its body.

 

 

The captain said that nearly a hundred wild dolphins live in this bay year-round, not fed by humans. They swam in the waves in front of the boat for about half an hour before gradually dispersing. We saw a few more on the way back, but it wasn't as lively as before. Watching them swim freely in the wild ocean felt incredibly pleasant, a completely different experience from seeing them in an aquarium.

 

 

Around 2 PM, we drove to Anna Bay, about 20 minutes from Nelson Bay. The sand dunes there are quite famous, resembling a small desert. Upon arrival, we first received sandboards, and the staff taught us to slide on our stomachs, using our toes to control direction slightly. Then we rode into the dunes in modified large-wheeled vehicles. The ride was a bit bumpy on the sand, but quite fun.

 

 

The dunes were larger than I expected, and looked a bit desolate. Climbing up was a bit tiring, as the sand was soft and difficult to walk on. Sliding down, however, was quick, reaching the bottom in five or six seconds, offering a good sense of speed. My first slide went awry, and I rolled several times, getting sand in my mouth. The second time was much better. After four or five slides, my legs were wobbly. I later found fine sand in my ears and pockets, which took a long time to wash off. I recommend not wearing your favorite shoes; my white shoes were practically ruined.

 

 

After sandboarding, we went directly to the nearby Birubi Beach, where there were camels on the sand. We arrived an hour before sunset and chose a half-hour ride. The camels were lying down initially, and when we sat on them, they stood up, which felt quite high at that moment.

 

 

The ride itself was very stable, swaying gently, not fast. Someone led the way, and a line of camels walked along the beach.

 

 

The sunset light was orange, beautiful against the sand. After the ride, we walked on the beach for a while. The water was a bit cool, but it felt nice to step into it.

 

 

This activity wasn't thrilling, just relaxing. If you're pressed for time or not interested, you can skip it. But that evening was indeed very pleasant. We stayed in a clean Airbnb in Nelson Bay that night, within walking distance of the jetty.

 

 

 

 

Day 2: Touching Sharks, Quad Biking

Our first stop in the morning was Irukandji Shark & Ray Encounters in Anna Bay, about a twenty-minute drive from Nelson Bay. The address is 2 Jessie Rd, and it opens at 9 AM.

 

When we arrived, it had just opened, and there weren't many people yet. This attraction is different from typical aquariums because you can get into the water and touch the animals. After entering, you first wash your hands, then the staff guides you to the side of the pool. There are several types of stingrays in the pool, round and flat, feeling slippery like jelly when touched. The staff gives out small pieces of fish food, and the stingrays come over when they smell it, pressing their entire bodies against you, their mouths sucking to eat. They feel quite goofy.

 

 

Next to it is another pool with small sharks, about a meter long. The staff said not to worry about touching them, as these sharks don't bite. I hesitated for a moment before putting my hand in. Their skin felt like rough sandpaper, not smooth as I had imagined. They swam around my hand, not very afraid of people. The whole process lasted about an hour and a half. The staff shared some interesting facts about these fish, such as where the stingrays' barbs are and why sharks need to keep swimming, without force-feeding information, which was quite engaging. When I came out, my hands were a bit wrinkled from being in the water, but I felt great. This hands-on experience was a lot of fun.

 

 

After leaving Irukandji around 10:30 AM, we drove straight to our pre-booked quad biking activity. It was still in the Anna Bay area, not far from the previous location.

 

 

We needed to arrive early at the quad bike camp for a safety briefing and preparation before departure. I had never ridden one before, but I picked it up quickly; the accelerator and brake were on the handlebars, so the operation wasn't complicated. We first practiced on flat ground for two laps, then headed to the beach. The beach had undulations, and it was fun bouncing around. At one point, the instructor led us close to the waves, and the splashing water was a bit cool. The entire trip lasted about an hour and wasn't too tiring.

The quad biking finished around 12 PM. We found a small cafe near Anna Bay and had a quick sandwich and coffee. There weren't many options there, so if you want a more comfortable meal, you can drive back to Nelson Bay.

 

 

Our first stop in the afternoon was Tomaree Head Lookout. It was about a ten-minute drive from Anna Bay. It required climbing a flight of stairs, taking about 20 minutes to reach the top at a leisurely pace. It was a bit hot, but there were resting spots along the way.

 

 

Once at the top, the view opened up dramatically. The entire bay was below, with layers of ocean colors, light blue near shore and deep blue further out. We could see several small islands in the bay and the channel we had boated through yesterday. We sat on the rocks and enjoyed the breeze for a while, not rushing to go down. There was also a World War II battery remains on the mountain; I took a quick look, it was small, just a few concrete structures.

 

 

After coming down from the lookout, we had a little time left and visited two other places. One was The Gan Gan Lookout; no climbing involved, just park by the road and walk a short distance. The angle was different from Tomaree, more towards the inner bay, suitable for panoramic photos. If you're tired, you can skip it; it's not a must-see.

 

A few tips:
Definitely bring sunscreen. There's no shade on the dunes and beach, and you'll get sunburned without it.

On weekends, it's best to book in advance. I recommend booking dolphin watching, sandboarding, and quad biking a few days ahead. You can also buy tickets for Irukandji online in advance to avoid queues.

Choose the morning for boat trips; the water is calmer, and there's more dolphin activity. Go sandboarding in the afternoon; the sand isn't as hot then.

Looking back at the photos, my favorite is the camel ride at sunset on the first day. Touching the sharks on the second day was also quite memorable, that slightly nervous yet curious feeling when reaching into the water. If you're bringing children, that attraction should be very popular.

 

If you are interested in Sydney tours: