墨尔本游记|在悬崖与海浪间,遇见澳大利亚最美的海岸线

Melbourne Travelogue | Encountering Australia's Most Beautiful Coastline Between Cliffs and Waves

Some say the Great Ocean Road is Australia's blue poem presented to the world. This time, I spent two days diligently reading every word of this poem along this winding coastal road.

Day One: From an Artsy Town to a Bay Sunset


Starting from Melbourne, the first stop was Geelong. This town has an unhurried, artistic vibe, with painted puppets scattered along the waterfront promenade, each with its own expression and story. I stood next to one puppet holding a camera for a while and felt it looked more like a tourist than I did.

 

Continuing onward, the Little Red Cap Lighthouse appeared – a white tower topped with a red cap, a very straightforward name. Next to it was Eagle Rock, where waves crashed against the reefs, the white foam standing out against the deep blue sea. The Great Ocean Road sign was a must-stop; though essentially just a wooden signpost, standing before it truly gave a sense of "the journey has begun."

 

Lunch was in the town of Lorne. This town is a favorite holiday spot for locals, with many people picnicking and walking their dogs by the sea. I found a restaurant on the main street with a sea view and ordered fish and chips. The fish was fresh, and the chips were perfectly fried. While I ate, a seagull stood beside me for ten minutes, its gaze so earnest I almost fed it.

 

Teddy's Lookout, very close to Lorne, offers a view of the Great Ocean Road coastline stretching into the distance. The road hugs the cliff, and the sea layers downward in shades of blue; every photo taken here looks like a postcard.

 

The highlight of the afternoon was spotting wild koalas. In a eucalyptus forest by the roadside, I spent a long time looking up and finally found a fluffy grey ball nestled in a tree fork, sleeping soundly. Nearby, a few colorful parrots were wide awake, chirping as if on guard for the koala.

 

In the evening, I hurried to Marriner's Lookout, the best spot to overlook Apollo Bay. The bay curved like a crescent moon, and the town lay peacefully at the foot of the mountains, with the sunset painting the sea in gold and pink. I sat on the hilltop for a long time until the light faded before reluctantly heading down.

 

I stayed overnight in Apollo Bay, the largest town on the Great Ocean Road, with many restaurant choices. I had pasta with local red wine; it wasn't cheap, but the ingredients were excellent. From my room, I could see the sea, and at night, I heard the waves, sleeping very deeply.

 

Day Two: Rainforest, Cliffs, and the Twelve Apostles


Early on the second day, I first visited the Cape Otway Lighthouse. This is the oldest lighthouse on the Australian mainland, and climbing to the top offers panoramic views of the entire coastline, so vast it makes you want to take a deep breath. The Otway Forest is nearby, a completely different landscape—towering ferns create a dense canopy, and the air is so humid it feels like you could wring water from it. The Otway Fly Treetop Walk is suspended dozens of meters above the ground, allowing you to walk among the treetops and clearly see the layered rainforest below, from ground moss to the highest branches.

 

Gibson Steps is a place you must experience firsthand. Descending from the cliff along stone steps to the beach, waves roll at your feet, and standing beneath the massive rock pillars, you feel incredibly small. Photos here are impactful, but you need to time it right, as the beach gets submerged at high tide.

 

The Twelve Apostles are the Great Ocean Road's signature attraction and truly worth a dedicated visit. I arrived in the afternoon, and the light from the west illuminated the limestone stacks, making them glow. If you have the budget and time, a helicopter tour is highly recommended – only from above can you truly grasp the solitude and grandeur of these rock formations in the sea.

 

Loch Ard Gorge, near the Twelve Apostles, features rugged rock formations and hidden beaches. The gorge is named after a shipwreck, and walking through it, you can feel the power of the sea's erosion over millions of years. Port Campbell is a quiet town; I sat on a bench by the pier, ate an ice cream, and watched local children fishing by the shore.

 

In the afternoon, I visited London Bridge. It was originally a double-arched sea-stack bridge, but in 1990, the arch connected to the mainland collapsed, turning it into a "broken bridge." Legend has it that two tourists were on the bridge when it collapsed and had to be rescued by helicopter – I thought about this for a long time while enjoying the scenery and imagined those two must have been quite bewildered.

 

The last stop was The Grotto, a cave formed by years of ocean pounding. The entrance is small, but inside it's quite spacious. Sunlight streams in from the opening, and the colors of the rocks mix with the reflections on the water, creating a unique sight.

If You Have More Time
Two days is enough to cover the most essential parts of the Great Ocean Road. If you have more time, you can continue west to Warrnambool, where there are good whale-watching spots; Port Fairy is a historic town, quieter than Lorne; further afield to Mount Gambier, with its volcanic lakes and underground gardens; or even drive all the way to Adelaide, which would be another journey entirely.

However, for me, watching the last sunset at London Bridge and heading back to Melbourne left me feeling utterly content. The beauty of the Great Ocean Road isn't in any single attraction, but in the entire road itself – the sea views after every turn, the breath of every rainforest, the smiling greetings from strangers in every small town, all make you feel that this journey was well worth it.

Some practical tips:
· Two days are enough to see the main attractions, but don't rush; allow more time to simply relax at each place.
· Helicopter tours of the Twelve Apostles are best booked in advance; waiting on-site can take a long time.
· Be patient when looking for wild koalas; they are usually in eucalyptus forests and are easier to spot in the mornings and evenings.
· Gas stations and supermarkets are sparse along the way, so refuel and restock whenever you see one.
· Be careful of wild animals when driving at dusk; kangaroos might suddenly jump onto the road.
May your Great Ocean Road trip be blessed with good weather.

 

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