Melbourne off-the-beaten-path travel | A paradise for mussel lovers
In Victoria's "mucosa capital," I achieved seafood freedom.
If someone asked me what my most unforgettable day was like around Melbourne, I would tell them: taking an old wooden boat out to sea, watching freshly caught mussels being cooked right there on the shore, enjoying them with white wine, and feeling the sea breeze as we ate.
This place is called Portarlington, about an hour and a half drive from Melbourne. The town has a prestigious title—Victoria's "Mussel Capital." Just for that title alone, it's worth the trip.
The boarding point was a quiet little dock, and we were going to board a 40-year-old Huon pine boat. The wooden hull was warmed by the sea breeze, and the creaking sound of stepping on it exuded a sense of age. The boat wasn't big, but it was full of retro charm, and every snapshot looked like a still from a movie.
The boat slowly moved away from the shore, heading towards the mussel farm. The seawater changed from dark blue to emerald green, and the sea breeze carried a salty scent. The crew began to demonstrate how to harvest the mussels; strings of mussels, still dripping with seawater, were scooped up from the ropes.
Besides mussels, scallops and oysters also made an appearance, lively and energetic.
The main event was in the ship's kitchenette. The crew started cooking right away, pouring freshly caught mussels into the pot, adding garlic, white wine, and cream in turn. As soon as the lid was lifted, the aroma wafted over with the sea breeze. The freshly cooked mussels were plump and tender; dipped in the sauce, and accompanied by a sip of chilled wine, with the endless blue sea stretching out above, the joy was simple and direct.
If you're lucky, you might even see dolphins swimming alongside the boat. We didn't see any that day, but I've heard it happens often.
If you'd like to go too, you can plan your day like this:
In the morning, we boarded a ship and went out to sea for a mussel cruise. There was food and drinks on board, and the cruise lasted about two or three hours.
In the afternoon, go back ashore. There are several nice wineries nearby; you can drive over and have a drink. Or rent a bicycle and ride along the coastline—the scenery is beautiful.
A day like this is just right – not rushed, not tiring.
Finally, I must say that the mussels from the sea are truly different from what you usually eat. Perhaps it's because they were just caught from the sea, or perhaps it's the sea breeze that whets the appetite; whatever the reason, that freshness is something I still remember to this day.
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